055. CATHEDRAL OF THE BLESSED VIRGIN MARY.

Catedral Basílica Menor de Santa María / Catedral Primada de América.

Santo Domingo Cathedral, Colonial Zone
Santo Domingo Cathedral. 16th century. The oldest cathedral in the Americas…

By Royal Order, in May 1510 the contract to build the Cathedral was awarded to the Spanish architect Alonso de Rodríguez. Almost immediately, he set sail for Hispaniola with eleven builders and two stonemasons. The first stone was ceremonially laid by Diego Columbus, the son of Christopher Columbus. However, construction unexpectedly came to a halt. The architect decided that Mexico looked more interesting. And departed, taking the plans and the workers he had brought with him…

The “first stone” was laid for a second time 11 years later by a newly arrived bishop. Construction proceeded very slowly… For many years, the bishop complained that he, despite holding such an important position, quite literally had no roof over his head.

Dominican culture has a wonderful tradition of celebrating a girl’s 15th birthday in grand style. In Spanish, this is called a “Quinceañera,” from the word quince — fifteen. Real celebrations and professional photo sessions are arranged for the occasion. Teenage girls are dressed in ball gowns, given professional makeup and photographed in parks and historic places around the city — like little brides…

Thirty years later, despite the fact that the project remained unfinished — the planned spire was never built — construction of the Cathedral was stopped. In the middle of the 16th century, a papal decree granted the Cathedral primacy over the other churches of the New World. It became the centre of the Christian world in the hemisphere.

Santo Domingo Cathedral, Colonial Zone, 16th century
The entrance for visitors is on the right-hand side, from Calle Isabel la Católica. Through this charming little courtyard…

 

Santo Domingo Cathedral, Colonial Zone, 16th century
The Cathedral’s bell tower is positioned lower down. It can be clearly seen from Calle Arzobispo Meriño…

The Cathedral is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its architecture is a mixture of late Gothic and Renaissance styles.

Santo Domingo Cathedral, Colonial Zone
Inside there are three naves and 14 side chapels decorated with altars from the 17th and 18th centuries.

REFERENCE: A nave — from the French nef and the Latin navis, meaning “ship” — is the long central section of a church interior, usually separated from the neighbouring aisles by rows of columns.

The oldest cathedral in the Americas, Santo Domingo, Colonial Zone
An amazingly beautiful cathedral. It is well worth seeing. The entrance fee is purely symbolic. There are no queues. And there is a convenient audio-guide option…

The central nave is higher than the side aisles. Beautiful pointed vaults are supported by massive pillars. In addition to the Main Altar, the Cathedral contains 14 very beautiful side chapels, created at a later date. Beneath the floor and inside the side chapels lie the archbishops of Santo Domingo and prominent figures of the colonial era.

Santo Domingo Cathedral, Colonial Zone, 16th century
The gates of the Cathedral’s rear courtyard, viewed from another street — Calle Arzobispo Meriño. They are almost always closed… Notice how the metal reliefs of the wrought-iron grille have been polished smooth and shiny in places… It is difficult to walk past these characters without giving them a little pat…

The exterior western façade of the church is especially magnificent and imposing. It is richly decorated in the Plateresque style.

REFERENCE: Plateresque — Spanish Plateresco, from platero, meaning “silversmith” or “jeweller.” An architectural style of the Spanish Renaissance that emerged in the late 15th century. Elaborate architectural ornament, detailed almost like jewellery… To get a better view of this façade, step into the Cathedral courtyard.

Santo Domingo Cathedral, Colonial Zone
From the Meriño Street side, the Cathedral looks especially elegant…

AN INTERESTING DETAIL. The western entrance to the Cathedral was known as the Portal of FORGIVENESS. In colonial times, anyone who managed to reach it came under the protection of the church. They could claim ecclesiastical sanctuary and escape the secular authorities…

Santo Domingo Cathedral, Colonial Zone, 16th century
A fragment of the main façade. Until quite recently, it was possible to see… a cannonball lodged inside this domed section. It did not pierce the roof completely and remained there for several centuries… They say it was a relic from the time of the pirate Drake, in 1586, when the English stormed the city… They used the Cathedral as their headquarters and stables… It is a pity that the cannonball has finally been removed…

The Cathedral’s decoration includes battlements resembling those of fortress walls. This was not merely an architectural ornament. It helped establish the tradition of fortress churches in Latin America.

Santo Domingo Cathedral, Colonial Zone, 16th century
A fragment of the Cathedral’s main façade.

ANOTHER INTERESTING — and almost invisible — DETAIL. Catacombs run beneath Santo Domingo. In some places they are natural cavities in the coral reef that rose from the depths of the sea and formed the foundation of the island. Elsewhere, they are artificial corridors cut by people as underground passageways. There is an entrance to the underground system inside the Cathedral. They say the corridor below has now been renovated and even fitted with air conditioning. The underground passage connects the Cathedral with the nearby Bishop’s Residence…

 

The Cathedral is still active. Opening hours: Monday to Saturday, 9:00 a.m.–4:00 p.m. On Sundays, services are held and tourist access may be restricted. Admission is paid, but inexpensive.

 

TIP: Dominicans are naturally good-natured and tolerant. But entering the Cathedral in a swimsuit and accompanied by a live crocodile is probably not advisable. Ladies wearing very short shorts can discreetly decorate their knees with a scarf or pareo.

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